Warranty Help
Posted: 21 March 2011 02:23 AM
Hey guys, so last week I bought a DC PBJ Biitner 2011. I have taken it out twice and the top graphic is already chipping. I spent a lot of money and I was a little dissapointed. I lxove the board and would love it to be replaced. Anyone know if they’d replace? On a sidenote, there’s also a pretty good edge dent already as well. Don’t know how that happened. Would that affect them replacing it? Thanks.
Posted: 21 March 2011 09:37 AM
Honestly call DC.
That being said boards will chip, dent, scratch, etc. all the time… unless you can prove the damage is due to poor workmanship or early breakdown of materials you probably won’t get much out of them.
Posted: 22 March 2011 02:33 AM
I emailed and they said they were sold out and were unable to help me with warranty issues. That seems a little fishy. Isn’t that the whole point of a warranty, to have replacements?
Posted: 22 March 2011 09:36 AM
I’m noticing a lot of boards out of the GST factory chip on the topsheet really easily at the tips. My friend just came out to Austria for two weeks and bought a brand new Bataleon Rocker. He’s been riding it for 10 days now and the thing looks like it’s done two winter seasons! Unfortunately though Steve is right, unless you can prove it’s an issue with workmanship and materials rather than someone skiing into the back of your board, they’re not obliged to replace the board. Particularly if there is more significant damage caused by an impact. I’d pick up a tube of epoxy (Araldite is a good one) apply it to where the chips are and sand it down, this will keep the chips from becoming a bigger problem. It really sucks when a product deteriates really quickly under normal wear and tear.
Posted: 22 March 2011 01:33 PM
Thanks Rich. That’s what I thought I may have to do. Do you know if I could pick up that kind of epoxy at a Home Depot or Menards? And is there a way I can fix the gauge in my edge?
Posted: 22 March 2011 05:34 PM
Of course you can, although I forget that Araldite is a UK brand name. I find the epoxy that comes in a dual syringe and dispenses the right amount of epoxy and hardener is the best. Here’s a link to the kind of think - http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100670610/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
Regarding the edge dink, these are a little harder to fix although I’ve just done one on the nose of my Rossi Angus because I hit a rail nose first. You’ll need to cut the surrounding Ptex out with a template and stanley knife blade. The template is important because it will allow you to replace the base material accurately. Then with a hammer and screw driver tap the edge back into place removing the dead resin from around the lugs on the edge. Cut a new piece of PTex sheet to replace the old piece using the template. You should be able to get hold of Ptex sheet on the internet. Rough up the back of the Ptex sheet and make sure it fits. Then apply epoxy to the edge and sparingly in the gap. Now place the cut Ptex insert and push it into place removing any epoxy that squeezes out. Clamp your repair in place with a G-clamp with block on either side. I find using the tear off backing from stickers prevents you from having to rip off half of your wooden blocks. Once it’s clamped into place and it all looks good, leave it to dry for 24 hrs. Now remove the clamp and the blocks and get some sand paper with a sanding block, you’ll probably want to start with a fairly corse grade and work into finer grades to get a smooth finish. Be sure that when you are working the edge back into place you’re not wellying it too hard with the screw driver hand hammer compination, you don’t want to snap it. It’s a good idea to support the edge either side of the ding so that you don’t knock the edge out of the rest of the board. Finally if the ding is at the nose or tail of the board I wouldn’t bother with PTex just use several layers of Epoxy, it won’t effect the base’s glide.
It’s quite bit of work and you’ll need a few tools and specialist materials i.e. PTex. It might be easier to get a professional to do it. Also how big is the ding? Have you got any pics?
Posted: 23 March 2011 04:19 AM
That was extremely helpful. I will get a picture up tomorrow sometime. Its not big, just bad. Like you can see the core bad.
Posted: 23 March 2011 08:59 AM
Core bad is as bad as it gets! You will definitely need to fix it or the core will suck in water and rot. Make sure the core has dried out before you do any fix. It shouldn’t be too difficult to fix though, edfinitely podt a pic.
Posted: 23 March 2011 09:00 AM
* definitely post a pic… it’s early and I’m typing like a moron.
Posted: 23 March 2011 11:03 PM
What kind of camera did you use to take that? A pin hole camera from circa 1850? I can’t see much, but it doesn’t look good. Any chance of a better pic?
Posted: 23 March 2011 11:44 PM
Not better quality.. but maybe better angle? I have ratty cameras..
Posted: 23 March 2011 11:55 PM
Slightly better, but it’s out of focus because you are holding the camera too close.
But yeah that is a classic edge ding. From the images it looks like you’ve sustained quite a lot of damage to the sidewall too, am I right or is the photo creating optical illusions?
It’s definitely fixable to a certain extent, but because the Ptex is damaged you’ll need to source some clear PTex sheet. I can’t really help any further without a good photo.
Rich
Posted: 24 March 2011 12:47 AM
Yea, the metal edge is broken and the sidewall broke too. Would it work just to pound the dent back and fill in the spot where the edge and side wall should be with epoxy?
Posted: 24 March 2011 08:53 AM
I think your board is probably on borrowed time. You’ll need to cut out the length of damaged edge and replace it with new edge. Here’s a link to a pretty good tutorial - telemarking site with step by step instructions on how to replace an edge . It’s quite a complex repair and getting hold of edge material is going to be difficult. This might be a job for a professional. With damage like that I’m really not suprised that the manufacturer won’t warranty it.
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