New intermediate/advanced board recommendations
Posted: 02 November 2010 03:17 PM
I’ve been boarding since ‘99 and started off with a cheap airwalk board. Then I bought a K2 Spitfire that I’ve been using for about 5 seasons. It seems that it’s finally time to upgrade, yet I have no idea where to begin. I’m 5’7, 140-145 lbs, shoe size 9-9 1/2. I mostly freeride/freecarve, and ride mostly in North Carolina. To be honest, I wasn’t completely satisfied with the Spitfire. I’m looking to spend about $300 for the board, but I also need bindings. If the setup isn’t too expensive, I will go ahead and buy new boots, but the ones I have now could last me for another season or two. Willing to spend about $450-$500 for it all. Thanks in advance.
Posted: 04 November 2010 05:33 PM
Hey Tenshi,
Hope we can help. As you’ve been riding for a while but your budget is fairly small I’d suggest that you look at 2009 and 2010 boards. I’d also suggest that you look for either a directional or directional twin shaped board with a rocker/camber hybrid profile or normal camber profile…...these characteristics will suit your freeride/freecarve style.
Before I list any boards can you tell me what you liked and didn’t like about your K2 spitfire? (i.e. Did it initiate turns fluidly and easily? Did it hold an edge well? etc etc) This will help me get a picture of what it is you’re looking for in a board.
Tom
Posted: 05 November 2010 09:30 AM
Hey Tenshi,
Hope we can help. As you’ve been riding for a while but your budget is fairly small I’d suggest that you look at 2009 and 2010 boards. I’d also suggest that you look for either a directional or directional twin shaped board with a rocker/camber hybrid profile or normal camber profile…...these characteristics will suit your freeride/freecarve style.
Before I list any boards can you tell me what you liked and didn’t like about your K2 spitfire? (i.e. Did it initiate turns fluidly and easily? Did it hold an edge well? etc etc) This will help me get a picture of what it is you’re looking for in a board.
Tom
Sorry for getting back to you so late. Also, thanks for the reply. If you think it best, I could shell out some more money for the new setup :p. As for the things I didn’t like about the Spitfire, I think the guy who set the bindings and everything for me was unknowledgeable. I just recently found out through this website that the boots should come out about 1 cm on either side of the board? When I stand on the Spitfire, there’s about half an inch+ on either side. Also, the stance seemed awkwardly wide for me, but once again the guy said that’s how it should be. Maybe factoring all of these is the main reason I didn’t have as much fun as I could’ve on the Spitfire. As for actual ridability, it did initiate turns fairly easily, but not necissarily fluid. What exactly do you mean by holding an edge well? Sorry, kind of new to all of these terms. I also started attempting fairly easy tricks a couple seasons ago, and the board doesn’t seem to “pop” at all. If there’s any other information I can give to help you recommend some boards, feel free to ask. Thanks again!
Posted: 05 November 2010 02:13 PM
Hey Tenshi,
It sounds as though you’re looking for an all-mountain board that you can take in the backcountry, carve around the piste but still learn tricks on in the park. I also believe that you should look at a board with a hybrid profile like Camrock (Nidecker, YES), Amptek (Rossignol), or Wavelength (Signal). This will make initiating turns easier and more fluid but will also make learning tricks easier, improve pop and give you the benefits of camber when carving.
Below are some boards that should fit the bill:
2011 Rossignol One Magtek (The 2010 version is a very different board)
2011 Rossignol Decoy
2011 Salomon Official
2011 YES Great Dudes
2010 Nidecker Addict
2010 Never Summer SL-R
Other boards to consider that may not have a hybrid camber but will offer good value for money:
2010 Atomic Alibi
2010 K2 Believer
2010 K2 Slayblade
With regards to length I’d look at riding a board no shorter than 153 and no longer than 157, considering your height, weight and focus. With regards to stance it’s a personal preference but taking into account your height you should be looking at a stance of between 23” and 25”, measured between the centre of the four inserts under each foot.
All the best,
Tom
Posted: 06 November 2010 04:55 AM
Hey Tom, thanks for the reply. I went out to snowboard shops today to look at the boards you recommended first hand. After much reading and looking, I can’t seem to decide between the Never Summer SL-R and the Slayblade. Also, while I was at the snowboard shop, I was recommended the Burton Process. Are you familiar with this board at all? If so, could you tell me the pros and cons for this board? Thanks again.
Posted: 06 November 2010 02:15 PM
Hey Tenshi,
I’ve heard great things about the Process but it isn’t the same kind of board as the Slayblade or SL-R. It’ll be a much easier board to ride and will be far more progressive in the park but if your focus is on freecarving and freeriding then the 2010 Slayblade and SL-R will be more appropriate. Bere in mind they’re both pretty stiff boards, and will feel ridiculously responsive, so if you were looking to for a board to jib and use on rails then the Process would be more appropriate. Also, the Process uses Burton’s EST binding system which means you’ll only be able to ride it with Burton bindings, which start at about $180 with EST.
Tom
Posted: 06 November 2010 03:14 PM
Hey Tom, I will mostly be freeriding, but don’t want to be limited to it. I would like a board that i can jib with once in a while. Would you still recommend the Slayblade and SL-R or think I should go with a Process? Also, it seems near impossible to find a 2010 SL-R, online and in local shops.
Posted: 06 November 2010 07:31 PM
Hey mate,
I’m not gonna tell you which board to buy because that’s not the idea of the site, we’re only here to advise. Sounds as though you’re not completely sure which area of riding you want to focus on, which is fine but it means you should probably look at a twin or directional twin with medium flex. From what you’re saying I think the Slayblade and SL-R are going to be too stiff…...end of the day you can still freeride on a slightly softer deck but you’ll struggle to learn jibs on a stiffer deck like the Slayblade and SL-R. Both those boards are for experienced riders that like to hit the bigger features in the park. Below are a few decks that are a compromise between the Slayblade and Burton Process:
K2 Believer 2010 (Exactly the same as the 2011)
2011 Rossignol Decoy
2010 or 2011 Salomon Grip
2011 Salomon Answer
2010 Signal Omni
I’ve ridden the Omni and Decoy….......and I owned the Believer for a winter in Argentina and Switzerland (8 months of riding) and absolutely loved it.
Good luck
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